Please click the links once for more info and pictures.

In this section I will be providing help, hints, tips and information about converting a Mini to Honda power be it VTEC or D series non Vtec, there will also be loads of info on both. So please read this and then look at the links to the extras info and also links to the various sites and I hope this is of help. (This is just a guide based on info I have collected and read, I am not endorsing any product or company merely offering info to those who need it, if there are any parts of this section that is incorrect or require additional info please email me and I will rectify the error or add the additional info)

If you want to go down the VTEC route it is recommended that you give it a great deal of thought as it isn’t just a case of sticking it in and stomping your right foot down…!!!! If only….!!! You have to consider the brakes, suspension and also the condition of the car is important as you will be upping the power from 60BHP-to-160BHP at least and the extra stress this causes can have ramifications…… so plan your build carefully.

The first thing you should do if embarking on this kind of project is to join the 16V Mini forum as it is full of been there done it Mini VTEC owners and is a wealth of info……!!!!! I am trying to put as much info on this page so that it is a one stop shop for anyone thinking about this conversion, but if you don’t find all the answers here then the 16V forum is the place to go.

The first question you need to answer is which sub frame to use…..??? there are many to choose from depending on a few things, if you are using right hand drive you have a couple of choices they are the modified Rover100 sub frames as supplied by Watson’s, SAE and Go-Mini, or the ( as yet unfinished ) AMT space frame. If using Left Hand drive you have the same choices as the right but there are a couple more, Brian Campbell and Ring Mini have made there own frames but are only for Left Hand drive and they keep the original track width. If you are using the modified Rover frame increase the track width by 10cms over the standard, which means the rear needs widened as well and when you’ve added wheels they can look a bit wide, but if using the AMT frame this uses the standard track width which is much better in my opinion.

Once you have chosen the sub frame the next step is the engine……!!! There are 2 main types the 1.6 and 1.8 VTEC these engines have there own codes (B16 and B18) and then the letters and numbers after that denote which car they are from and what spec they are. For instance the B16a1 is from the 90-91 CRX and Civic and has a cable clutch. The B18c5 is the all singing and dancing Type R and has a hydraulic clutch and is found in the Integra and Civic Type R. Here is a table of the engines available and where they can be found…

The price for Vtec engines vary from a few hundred pounds to a couple of thousand but the most important things is that it is in good condition, you are better with a good 1.6 than a rough 1.8.

If you are looking for an engine it has been recommended to me that you source a complete running car as there are so many little bits and pieces you need, from the gear linkage to the full wiring loom (unless you want to go down the expensive aftermarket engine management route DTA, Wolf etc) but also you will at least know that the engine is running…..!!!!! If you do get a running car for the conversion it is the perfect time to give it a good service prior to removal.

Here also is a table for gearboxes and gear ratios as these are important when putting this engine in the Mini, also some come with an LSD….!!

A 3.5 Final drive for hydraulic gearboxes which gives much better gearing is also now available…..

There are a couple of different things to do on the induction front if using the standard injection inlet, but the best thing to do is get the induction air as cold as possible, as the colder it is the denser it is, and the more dense the air is the more oxygen per volume there is and therefore a higher combustion pressure is achieved. There are three options, fit a filter at the inlet, fit a short intake or fit a cold air intake. For the  results of the different types click the above link for a full chart.

There are a couple of options available here as well, the standard manifold is ok, but a bit heavy, so your options are...... the cheapest option is to go for a Type R tubular manifold, from there you can go for various aftermarket manifolds in either steel to stainless steel, chromed or ceramic coated, but one tip is to wrap the manifold in heat wrap not only will it keep the engine bay a bit cooler but it improves the flow.

Now depending on which sub frame you use has a baring on what brakes you use…

If you are using the Metro based sub frame there are a few options, as the hubs are basically MGF you can upgrade the discs and pads easily enough, you can also upgrade to RS Turbo discs and after market callipers, If using a sub frame that uses Mini hubs you can upgrade to Metro 4 pots (Cast Iron) or Alloy 4 pots or even 6 pots.

Once again this depends on which sub frame you are using…. The metro one uses standard metro upper and lower arms but special springs can replace the hydro dampers and are completed with shocks, the Mini based sub frames are best using coil over shocks, so that it is just one fully adjustable unit…….

When doing the conversion there are quite a few things to do….. If using a bell nosed Mini (RHD) you will need to lengthen it by 90cms, it is possible to fit it in a round nose (LHD) without stretching it due to the steering rack being the other way round. You have to add a return line to the fuel tank due to fuel injection (if using an Estate you need to modify your own tank) but by using an tank from an Injection Mini you save a lot of hassle, also you will need a new fuel pump, you can use S/H ones such as XR2, Vauxhall 16V etc or purchase a facet. If you do get a whole car for the conversion and aren’t going to use throttle bodies and new management you need the whole loom, ECU and clocks as the Speedo sends a signal that is to do with the Vtec (I believe), you can also use the standard radiator or a suitable S/H one depending on the room you have or location you choose, on the subject of modification (tuning) I have heard many tales of what to do….. but I believe all that is required is a good cold air induction kit, a good exhaust manifold (expensive) and an APEX API Vtec Controller, now I am not saying all this is gospel as I am only embarking on my Vtec conversion and I will add to the section of my web site as and when I discover something else but I hope that anyone reading this finds it helpful. If you have anything you want to send me for this section, email me at Email